Saturday, September 10, 2011

Tales to fill a thousand nights|china travel

Hazzan II Mosque in Casablanca, which is said to be able to accommodate 100,000 people. Photos by Ye Jun / China Daily

From the labyrinthine lanes of Fez, and the horse carts of the Medina of Marrakech, to the spectacular mosque in Casablanca, Morocco is a tourist paradise. Ye Jun reports.

Morocco has long been my dream destination. This mysterious country has fueled my imagination because of the magical stories from One Thousand and One Nights and the romance of the classic film Casablanca (1942), a favorite of many Chinese.

I got the chance to visit the country as part of a media group, invited by the International Olive Council (IOC). Morocco is the world's second-largest producer of table olives and IOC is an intergovernmental organization that seeks to promote the use of olive oil.

The tightly scheduled tour took us to olive farms and olive-oil producing facilities at Marrakech, Casablanca, Meknes, Fez and Rabat.

But my first impressions were anything but pleasant.

Tourists can sample the ancient life of Fez at its numerous shops.

At Marrakech's airport, I faced a demand of 220 dirhams ($27.38) for a taxi ride of less than 5 km, although I eventually brought it down to 80 dirhams. Then, at Djemaa el Fna Square, whenever I tried to take a photo, someone would come up to me and demand 50 dirhams.

It was only when I revisited Djemaa el Fna Square the following evening, that my spirits were restored.

During the day there were just too many vendors, but in the evening, I felt like a local.

An old street-performer aroused much laughter with his robust storytelling and I found myself joining in the mirth, even though I couldn't understand a word.

The night food markets overflowed with tempting delicacies - snails and lamb head, roasted and boiled - as well as fresh fruit juices and exotic dry fruits.

Even at 10 pm, we were in the middle of a throng of people at the back of the square, alive with a host of activities. The whole place was so full of life and energy that I was captivated.

Marrakech, surrounded by ancient red walls and its colorful souks (markets) selling an array of goods, is indeed a tourist paradise. The city attracts many visitors from Spain, Italy, France, and other Mediterranean and European countries, who can be seen riding horse carts around Medina, the old city.

Koutoubia Mosque, a city landmark, has a beautifully decorated minaret that stands 70 meters tall. But non-Muslims can only admire it from the outside. From the third floor of Cafe Argan, next to the Djemaa el Fna Square, one can catch a good view of the sometimes snow-capped High Atlas range, the highest mountain in North Africa, while tucking into delectable lamb tagine, besides delicious appetizers made with aubergine, carrot, cabbage, tomato and onion.

A Marrakech market overflows with a variety of exotic dry fruits.

The flavors were so intoxicating that I bought a packet of cumin seeds and ground chili at a supermarket. At the souk near the square, an Indian journalist, who turned out to be a great bargainer, helped me buy a set of beautifully colored glasses, and a silver pot and plate for just 350 dirhams ($42.76).

Another interesting discovery I made was that of a red incense rock at a spice shop. I had read on the Internet that the red walls of the city had been built with an incense stone and I was delighted over my find.

Two Indian journalists and I spent a mere 6 dirhams on a fresh pomegranate at the vegetable market, which must have weighed 1 kg. The ruby-like fruit was unbelievably sweet. The peaches and pears were just a notch lower. Palm dates are another Morrocan specialty, and palm trees can be seen everywhere.

Moroccans are Muslims. Most women wear long robes and head scarves, but only a few also cover their faces. One can tell that it is a relatively open Muslim country. I saw young couples walking hand-in-hand in Marrakech.

With more than 5,000 years of history, Morocco has come under Phoenician, Roman and Byzantine influences, before becoming Islamic in the 7th century. It became a French colony in 1912 and remained so until its independence in 1956. The official language is Arabic, while French is the second-most widely spoken language.

Another highlight of our tour was Fez. The minute you enter its main city gate, blue on the outside and green inside, you will feel like you have traveled several centuries back in time.

Established in the 9th century, Fez was the first imperial capital of ancient Morocco. It is frighteningly easy to get lost in the old city, crisscrossed by numerous narrow, labyrinthine lanes. It was a pity we had only three hours to take a quick walk through the city.

But that was enough for me to get lost - twice.

I was looking at something and taking pictures and the next second when I raised my head, my group had disappeared. Luckily I was calm enough to get back to the starting point and found my group.

We had a quick look at the world's first university, Qarqouiyyin, and the dye house, which let off such a strong smell that our guide offered everyone a mint leaf before going in.

We made brief visits to the Royal Palace of Rabat, and the spectacular Hazzan II Mosque in Casablanca, which is said to be able to accommodate 100,000 people.

Our hosts showed expansive hospitality at our reception, and we were treated to huge pastilles, whole roast lamb, braised chicken, and a great variety of fresh fruits. Despite being a Muslim country, Morocco produces wine that is sold to tourists, and also exported. The wines are made to international standards.

The night food markets in Marrakech are packed with tourists and locals.

(China Daily 02/10/2011 page19)

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